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What is a Quilt?
When people hear the word 'quilt', most have a vision in their mind
of what they perceive a quilt to look like. If consulting the Random
House Dictionary, the definition of a quilt will read: "a coverlet
for a bed, made of two layers of fabric with some soft substance, as
wool or down, between them and stitched in patterns or tufted
through all thicknesses in order to prevent the filling from
shifting".
The earliest forms of quilting were most likely created as a means
of keeping warm - adopting the idea that if one layer of animal skin
or fabric was warm, then several layers would provide more warmth.
To sandwich additional layers in the middle provided a superior
method of warming and appears to have been used in garments, bedding
and carpeting in ancient times to stave off the cold.
Additionally, historians record that the quilt has been utilized as
a form of communication, social class indicator as well as used in
place of armor for soldiers in both Western and Eastern cultures.
A Stitch in Time: History of the
Quilt
Strictly speaking, the word quilt comes from the Latin word culcita
meaning 'a stuffed sack'. However, the term quilt came to the
English language from the French word 'cuilte.'
Due to the perishable nature of fabric, there are few historical
examples of actual quilting. Instead, one has to turn to both art
and literature to learn about early quilting techniques. Historians
do know that quilting, piecing, and appliqué were used for
furnishings and clothing in early times.
One of the earliest examples of a quilted garment can be found on
the carved, ivory figure of a Pharaoh of the Egyptian First Dynasty
who is supposedly wearing a quilted mantle (c. 3400 B.C.). There are
many references to quilts in literature, inventories of estates and
trade journals. In 1924, archeologists discovered a quilted floor
covering in Mongolia that is dated at somewhere between the First
Century B.C. and Second Century A.D.
The earliest surviving bed quilt is from Sicily and dates back to
the 14th Century. Made of linen and padded with wool, the design
features scenes from the legend of Tristan. It can be seen at the
Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Well Suited!
In the late 11th Century, crusaders brought quilting from
the Middle East to Europe. Quilted garments were very popular in the
Middle Ages. In some cases, Knights wore quilted garments underneath
their armor for comfort or in place of armor to allow for easier
movement.
Woven cloth was a luxury few could afford in earlier times. As a
result, every scrap of cloth and pieces salvaged from old clothing,
furnishing fabrics and leftovers from dressmaking were used in the
construction of quilts and to patch up garments and bedclothes.
In colonial America, many young girls made quilt tops in preparation
for their eventual marriage, using rare and imported fabrics from
England.
(Well-Suited, continued)…
With the dawn of the Industrial Revolution, quilting changed
dramatically. Printed fabrics were readily available and home
insulation dramatically improved, diminishing the need for heavy
quilts. Victorian ladies turned their patchwork into a new form and
passion - the 'crazy quilt' using irregular pieces of silk and
velvet to create dramatic patterns.
Crazy' but True!
The term 'crazy quilt' lives up to its image as far as
design is concerned. From the beginning, there were no planned
designs with respect to pattern, shape, color or materials in the
formation of a crazy quilt.
The first use of the word 'crazy' in needlework was in the
'Cultivator and Country Gentleman' in 1878. It referred to an
embroidered canvas cushion to be passed among friends. Each person
would introduce her own embroidered design, pass it on, and finally
return it to its owner. As the article suggested, "You will think it
a 'crazy' cushion indeed!" In 1882, the September issue of 'Harper's
Bazaar' gave this technique the highest praise by complimenting and
endorsing crazy quilting as bold, daring and creative.
Crazy patchwork peaked in the late 1880s and continued until 1920.
The trend became less common in the following decades but has
enjoyed renewed popularity in recent years.
Early America 'Settles' for the Quilt
When settlers arrived in the new world, they imported with
them much of European cultural heritage. Although no records can
confirm whether quilts accompanied them, it is assumed these
settlers did bring the art of quilting with them. The first known
reference to quilts in America is at the end of the 17th Century in
the household inventory of a Salem, Massachusetts' sea captain. None
of the early colonial quilts survive. However, the earliest American
surviving quilt is the Saltonstall quilt from 1704. Historians were
able to date the Saltonstall quilt due to its unique technique.
Prior to starting the fabric quilt construction, paper was cut and
pieced together to form the design. The paper pieced quilt was used
as an inner lining. As the outer fabric began to wear, the date on a
newspaper came into view, and this is credited with providing
historians an accurate idea of when the quilt was made!
Quilt making flourished in the period between 1825 and 1875. As
settlers moved west in the 19th Century, they took quilting with
them. The craft became an important part of life and culture of the
Great Plains. Apart from use on beds, quilts were used as covers for
doors & windows and as play mats for children. In many cases, they
were used as currency to pay bills. Due to the isolated geography of
the Great Plains, the 'quilting bee' became a social event for women
from around the area. This 'event' would commence with an all-day
gathering and quilting session, accompanied by lunch and dinner for
all the families. Often there would be a dance in the evening as
part of the occasion. One of the happier objectives of the quilting
bee was to help provide young women with quilts for their 'hope
chest'.
Log cabin quilts featured a unique design adopted by settlers and
pioneers. Originally, the tiny square in the center of each quilt
block was red to represent the warmth of hearth and home. The
prettiest quilts were displayed externally on a clothesline or fence
to show off.
During the Civil War, quilts were hung outside as a sign. If the
little squares in the center were black, it meant that this was a
safe house for Underground Railroad. Additionally, in the mid-19th
Century, American women used the craft to express political views
and to raise money for various causes.
Quilts - The perfect 'Peace Pipe'
Quilting was introduced to Native Americans by missionaries.
They who sought to 'civilize' them through traditional European
homemaking skills. Settlers & soldiers also brought them along as
they ventured west. Native Americans were fascinated by these new
bed coverings.
It didn't take long for Native American quilters to incorporate
their own cultural designs into their quilts. In the late 1800s,
Plains Indian women introduced the Lone Star pattern into their
designs - commonly known as the Morning Star quilt. Native American
women from the Great Lakes added a floral element with the appliquéd
flowers placed between the points of the stars. Today, the Morning
Star pattern remains a traditional favorite.
Each Native American tribe introduced new elements into quilt
designs. Seminole quilting originated from Seminole patchwork used
for traditional dress. Seminole designs grew in complexity and were
very elaborate. Even today, such garments are worn for special
occasions and the creative patterns found their way into popular
quilt making.
Southwestern Native Americans have incorporated designs from Navajo
blankets, basketry and sand paintings into their quilts, resulting
in richly colored and exceptional pieces.
The native people of the Hawaiian Islands have incorporated their
rich history of art and symbolism into their quilt designs. Two
unique quilt designs prevail: one using the Hawaiian flag and the
other using Hawaiian royalty that honors the short-lived Hawaiian
Kingdom.
A Gift that Transcends Cultural
Boundaries
Native Americans recognize gift giving as an important,
ceremonial practice of their communities. Gifts are given at
baby-naming ceremonies, graduations, unions, pow-wows and funerals,
and as awards for athletic achievement.
Not only have Native Americans embraced the ancient craft of
quilting, they have also recognized the quilt's value and
significance as a gift - truly demonstrating that a quilt remains a
perfect gift in modern times.
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